Solar Energy House - Warnings Regarding DIY Solar Panels

It you are keen to create your own Solar Energy House you may well have considered DIY solar panels. Well, while I applaud your desire to have a solar energy house, let me warn you that you will not save money by making your own solar panels. Lets look at why.

40 Watt Soldering Iron

Cost of a DIY Solar Panel

40 Watt Soldering Iron

Lets ignore the cost of your time. Here is a list of the materials required:
- Clear plexiglass or low iron solar glass 2ft x 4ft x 1/4in or more
- 3/4in 2ft x 4ft plywood panel
- Solar cell kit (eBay) 9, comprising:

- 50 Solar cells each 3in x 6in, 1.75w, pre-tabbed
- 10ft tabbing wire and 10ft bus wire,
- Flux pen and solder

- Peg board 2 panels 2ft x 2ft
- Clear silicone caulk/sealant
- Junction box
- Paint, stainless screws, wood for frame
- Diodes

Total cost 2. Take off for the 10 extra solar cells that are not required, gives a total of 2 for the materials to make a 60 watt solar panel. This works out at per watt.

Cost of Factory Made Panels
If you do a casual search on the Internet, most solar panels work out at - .50 per watt. But we ferreted around and found a 120watt panel for 8 retail, equivalent to .98 per watt. There are also a number of wholesalers willing to sell direct to the public, and minimum order quantities can be as low as two panels. We found a 225watt solar panel wholesale for 9 (min order 2 panels), equivalent to .44 per watt.

Warnings & Dangers of DIY Solar Panels
Also, if you are thinking about making your own solar panels to cut the cost of your solar energy house, please be aware of the following:
- In the US, you will NOT be allowed to connect your home made solar panels to the grid. If you want your solar energy house to be connected to the grid, you must use solar panels with UL certification. Many countries have similar regulations.
- Commercially manufactured solar panels come with 25 year performance guarantees. DIY solar panels have no guarantees and will probably last just a few years at best.
- With any home made solar panel there is a risk of fire from poor quality soldering. If your DIY solar panel ignited and resulted in fire damage to your house, your insurance company might be a little reluctant to pay out for a fire caused by a solar panel that did not have UL certification.
- And the final nail in the coffin of a home made solar energy house: in the US, home made solar panels will NOT qualify for the significant rebates and tax credits that are available.

If you want solar panels for your solar energy house and want a system that is safe, reliable, qualifies for rebates and will really cut your electricity bills, forget DIY. DIY can be a great introduction to understanding what it means to have a solar energy house, but it is not a viable alternative to factory made solar panels.

Make a Solar Panel as a Science or DIY Project
However, if you want to make your own solar panel as a science project, this can be fun, satisfying and very rewarding. On completion you will also have a solar panel you can show off to your friends and something you could use to provide light for a yard, shed or outbuilding.

If you want to make a solar panel as a science project, consider buying one of the "how too make solar panels" guides. Some of these are very good and do an excellent job of showing you (they have some very good videos) what to do, how to do it and when to do. Yes, a guide will add $40 - to the cost, but that could be money very well spent, just don't fall for all the marketing hype!

Conclusion
If you want a solar energy home and to reduce your electricity bills, forget the DIY route. But, although you won't save money or reduce your electricity bill, making a solar panel as part of a science project should be very satisfying and educational. If you do not want to spend the $40 - for one of the DIY solar panel guides, there is a lot of information on the Internet. I wish every success with your Solar Energy House.

Solar Energy House - Warnings Regarding DIY Solar Panels
40 Watt Soldering Iron

Special Price!!! Weller WMRP 40W/12V Micro Soldering Pencil for WD1M and WD2M Soldering and Rework Stations

Weller WMRP 40W/12V Micro Soldering Pencil for WD1M and WD2M Soldering and Rework Stations
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Weller WMRP 40W/12V Micro Soldering Pencil for WD1M and WD2M Soldering and Rework Stations

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Weller WMRP 40W/12V Micro Soldering Pencil for WD1M and WD2M Soldering and Rework Stations Feature

  • Extremely short heat-up time
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  • Chrome plated aluminum pencil weights just 75g
  • Just 45mm tip-to-grip, so you're close to the work
  • Tip has integral comfort grips for "no-tool" tip change


Weller WMRP 40W/12V Micro Soldering Pencil for WD1M and WD2M Soldering and Rework Stations Overview

Product Features: Made of aluminum with chrome plating and weighs just 75g The "tip to grip" distance is 45mm, placing you close to the work The pencil has a Reed switch to give you auto-off capability RT Series Tips sold separately



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Wall Lenk L40 40 Watt Soldering Kit

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Wall Lenk L40 40 Watt Soldering Kit
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Wall Lenk L40 40 Watt Soldering Kit Feature

  • Pencil Type Soldering Iron
  • 40 Watts- Maximum Tip Temperature 975 degrees
  • Impact Resistant Polycarbonated Handles and Stainless Steel Shaft For Durability
  • Mica Insulated Nichrome Heating Element
  • 8 foot cord


Wall Lenk L40 40 Watt Soldering Kit Overview

40W electric soldering iron. A general purpose workhouse, great for a variety of household and garage projects: Electronics, small appliances, and lawn and garden projects. Pencil style provides better control and handling. Mica insulated nichrome heating



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ECG J-060 60 Watt Soldering Iron

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ECG J-060 60 Watt Soldering Iron Feature

  • 10" length
  • 5 ft. power cord
  • Includes stand
  • UL Listed


ECG J-060 60 Watt Soldering Iron Overview

This professional 60 watt soldering iron features a replaceable tip, ergonomically designed cool grip rubber handle, and a nickel-iron plated long life copper tip.



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How LED Light Bulbs Are Made

One-hundred-and-thirty years ago, Thomas Edison completed the first successful sustained test of the incandescent light bulb. With some incremental improvements along the way, Edison's basic technology has lit the world ever since. This is about to change. We are on the cusp of a semiconductor-based lighting revolution that will ultimately replace Edison's bulbs with a far more energy-efficient lighting solution. Solid state LED lighting will eventually replace almost all of the hundreds of billions of incandescent and fluorescent lights in use around the world today. In fact, as a step along this path, President Obama last June unveiled new, stricter lighting standards that will support the phasing out of incandescent bulbs (which already are banned in parts of Europe).

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To understand just how revolutionary LED light bulbs are as well as why they are still expensive, it is instructive to look at how they are manufactured and to compare this to the manufacture of incandescent light bulbs. This article explores how incandescent light bulbs are made and then contrasts that process with a description of the typical manufacturing process for LED light bulbs.

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So, let's begin by taking a look at how traditional incandescent light bulbs are manufactured. You will find that this is a classic example of an automated industrial process refined in over a century of experience.

While individual incandescent light bulb types differ in size and wattage, all of them have the three basic parts: the filament, the bulb, and the base. The filament is made of tungsten. While very fragile, tungsten filaments can withstand temperatures of 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit and above. The connecting or lead-in wires are typically made of nickel-iron wire. This wire is dipped into a borax solution to make the wire more adherent to glass. The bulb itself is made of glass and contains a mixture of gases, usually argon and nitrogen, which increase the life of the filament. Air is pumped out of the bulb and replaced with the gases. A standardized base holds the entire assembly in place. The base is known as the "Edison screw base." Aluminum is used on the outside and glass used to insulate the inside of the base.

Originally produced by hand, light bulb manufacturing is now almost entirely automated. First, the filament is manufactured using a process known as drawing, in which tungsten is mixed with a binder material and pulled through a die (a shaped orifice) into a fine wire. Next, the wire is wound around a metal bar called a mandrel in order to mold it into its proper coiled shape, and then it is heated in a process known as annealing, softening the wire and makes its structure more uniform. The mandrel is then dissolved in acid.

Second, the coiled filament is attached to the lead-in wires. The lead-in wires have hooks at their ends which are either pressed over the end of the filament or, in larger bulbs, spot-welded.

Third, the glass bulbs or casings are produced using a ribbon machine. After heating in a furnace, a continuous ribbon of glass moves along a conveyor belt. Precisely aligned air nozzles blow the glass through holes in the conveyor belt into molds, creating the casings. A ribbon machine moving at top speed can produce more than 50,000 bulbs per hour. After the casings are blown, they are cooled and then cut off of the ribbon machine. Next, the inside of the bulb is coated with silica to remove the glare caused by a glowing, uncovered filament. The label and wattage are then stamped onto the outside top of each casing.

Fourth, the base of the bulb is also constructed using molds. It is made with indentations in the shape of a screw so that it can easily fit into the socket of a light fixture.

Fifth, once the filament, base, and bulb are made, they are fitted together by machines. First, the filament is mounted to the stem assembly, with its ends clamped to the two lead-in wires. Next, the air inside the bulb is evacuated, and the casing is filled with the argon and nitrogen mixture.

Finally, the base and the bulb are sealed. The base slides onto the end of the glass bulb such that no other material is needed to keep them together. Instead, their conforming shapes allow the two pieces to be held together snugly, with the lead-in wires touching the aluminum base to ensure proper electrical contact. After testing, bulbs are placed in their packages and shipped to consumers.

Light bulbs are tested for both lamp life and strength. In order to provide quick results, selected bulbs are screwed into life test racks and lit at levels far exceeding normal. This provides an accurate measure of how long the bulb will last under normal conditions. Testing is performed at all manufacturing plants as well as at some independent testing facilities. The average life of the typical household bulb is 750 to 1,000 hours, depending on wattage.

LED light bulbs are built around solid-state semiconductor devices, so the manufacturing process most closely resembles that used to make electronic products like PC mother boards.

A light-emitting diode (LED) is a solid state electrical circuit that generates light by the movement of electrons in a semiconductor material. LED technology has been around since the late 1960s, but for the first 40 years LEDs were primarily used in electronics devices to replace miniature light bulbs. Within the last decade, advances in the technology finally boosted light output high enough for LEDs to begin to seriously compete with incandescent and fluorescent light bulbs. As with many technologies, as the cost of production falls each successive LED generation also improves in light quality, output per watt, and heat management.

The computer industry is well suited to manufacture LED lighting. The process isn't a whole lot different than making a computer motherboard. The companies making the LEDs themselves are generally not in the lighting business, or it is a minor part of their business. They tend to be semiconductor houses that are happy cranking out their product, which is why prices on high-output LEDs has fallen so much in the last 15 years.

LED bulbs themselves are expensive in part because it takes a number of LEDs to get wide-area illumination instead of a narrow beam, and the assembly cost adds to the overall price. In addition, assemblies consisting of arrays of LEDs create more opportunities for product defects.

An LED light consists of four essential components: an LED circuit board, a heatsink, a power supply, and a shell. The lights start out as bare printed circuit boards (PCB) and high luminance LED elements arrive from separate factories which specialize in making those components. LED elements themselves create a bit of heat, so the PCB used in lighting fixtures is special. Instead of the standard non-conductive sandwich of epoxy and fiberglass, the circuit board is laid out on a thin sheet of aluminum which acts as a heatsink.

The aluminum PCB used in LED lighting is coated with a non-conducting material and conductive copper trace lines to form the circuit board. Solder paste is then applied in the right places and then Surface Mount Technology (SMT) machines place the tiny LED elements, driver ICs, and other components onto the board at ultra high speeds.

The round shape of a traditional light bulb means that most LED printed circuit boards are circular, so for ease of handling several of the smaller circular PCBs are combined into one larger rectangular PCB that automated SMT machinery can handle. Think of it like a cupcake tray moving from one machine to the next along a conveyor belt, then at the end the individual cupcakes are snapped free from the tray.

Let's take a look at the manufacturing steps for a typical LED light bulb meant to replace a standard incandescent bulb with an Edison Screw. You will see that it is a very different process from the highly automated processes used to manufacture our familiar incandescent bulbs. And, despite what you might imagine, people are still very much a necessary part of manufacturing process, and not just for testing and Quality Assurance either.

Once the larger sheets of LED circuit boards have passed through a solder reflow oven (a hot air furnace that melts the solder paste), they are broken up into the individual small circuit boards and power wires manually soldered on.

The small power supply housed in the body of the light bulb goes through a similar process, or may be delivered complete from another factory. In either case, the manufacturing steps are the same; first the PCB passes through SMT lines, then it goes to a manual dual in-line package (DIP) assembly line where a long row of factory workers add one component at a time. DIP refers to the two parallel rows of leads projecting from the sides of the package. DIP components include all integrated chips and chip sockets.

While LED lights burn several times longer than incandescent or CFLs and require less than half the energy, they need some form of passive heatsink keep the high-power LEDs from overheating. The LED circuit board, which is made from 1.6-2mm thick aluminum, will conduct the heat from the dozen or so LED elements to the metal heatsink frame and thus keep temperatures in check. Aluminum-backed PCBs are sometimes called "metal core printed circuit boards," and though made of a conductive material the white coating is electrically isolating. The aluminum PCB is screwed in place within the heatsink which forms the lower half of the LED light bulb.

After this, the power connector board is fixed in place with adhesive. The small power supply converts 120/240V AC mains power to a lower voltage (12V or 24V), it fits in the cavity behind the aluminum PCB.

Shell assembly consists of locking the shell in place with screws. A plastic shell covers the power supply and connects with the metal heatsink and LED circuit board. Ventilation holes are included to allow hot air to escape. Wiring assembly for plug socket requires soldering wires to the bulb socket. Then shell is attached.

Next, the completed LED light is sent to burn-in testing and quality control. The burn-in test typically lasts for 30 minutes. The completed LED light bulb is then powered up to see if it is working properly and burned in for 30 minutes. There is also a high-voltage leakage and breakdown test and power consumption and power factor test. Samples from the production run are tested for high-voltage leaks, power consumption, and power factor (efficiency).

The finished bulbs pass through one final crimping step as the metal socket base is crimped in place, are bar-coded and identified with lot numbers. External safety labels are applied and the bulb is inked with information, such as brand and model number. Finally, all that's left is to fix on the clear plastic LED cover which is glued in place.

After a final check to make sure all the different parts of the LED light are tight, then it is packed into individual boxes, and bulbs are shipped out.

So, if you have wondered why LED light bulbs are so expensive today, this explanation of how they are manufactured and how that compares to the manufacture of traditional light bulbs should help. However, it also reveals why the cost will fall pretty dramatically over the next few years. Just as the cost of manufacturing other semiconductor-based products has fallen dramatically due to standardization, automation and other key steps along the manufacturing learning curve, the same inexorable forces will drive down the costs of LED light bulb production.

How LED Light Bulbs Are Made
40 Watt Soldering Iron

Special Price!!! Weller 8200PK Soldering Gun Kit

Weller 8200PK Soldering Gun Kit
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Weller 8200PK Soldering Gun Kit

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Weller 8200PK Soldering Gun Kit Feature

  • All-Purpose, 120V Soldering Gun
  • Dual-Heat Gun Produces 140W Or 100W With Pistol Grip Design
  • Fingertip Trigger Selects High Or Low Output
  • Ready To Use In 6 Sec
  • High-Efficiency, Tin-Plated Copper Tip


Weller 8200PK Soldering Gun Kit Overview

Type: Single
Wattage: 140 W/100 W
Temperature Range: 1020° F/900° F
Cord Length: 6 ft.





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Hakko Soldering Iron, 40 Watt, Model 455

Hakko Soldering Iron, 40 Watt, Model 455
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Hakko Soldering Iron, 40 Watt, Model 455

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Hakko Soldering Iron, 40 Watt, Model 455 Feature

  • Ceramic heating element provides a longer life
  • Alloy-coated iron tips ensure long-lasting protection from corrosion
  • Includes 5D chisel tip
  • 40W


Hakko Soldering Iron, 40 Watt, Model 455 Overview

Ceramic heating element provides a longer life than conventional nichrome-iron element. Alloy-coated iron tips ensure long-lasting protection from corrosion. Specs: Maximum temperature: 599 Degrees C (1110 Degrees F); Comes with 5D chisel tip. 455 Soldering Iron, 40W



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Solar Home Panels - Building or Buying Solar Panels for Your Home

As a homeowner, it is important to always consider what types of investment are good for your home and which may not be. Adding value to your home is always a sound investment and one of the more popular and cost effective ways to achieve this is to install a solar home energy system which will include solar home panels. Whilst the installation of such a system is not very difficult, the main cost involved is for the panels themselves and finding methods of reducing this cost will dramatically increase your return on investment.

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An average that is the industry standard is a cost of around .00 to .00 per watt used per day for pre-manufactures and factory installed panels. For larger households, this may require a massive investment that may or may not pay for itself depending on how much electricity you use, how much energy your panels will be able to produce and also how many panels you can accommodate. The lifespan of a standard solar panel is in the region of twenty years, but the advantages of installing a solar systems is that you are not only reducing your electricity bill, but also your dependence on fossil fuels for your power requirements. This in itself has its own intrinsic value that you may wish to consider as part of your calculations.

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For many, the cost of having solar home panels built and installed is too expensive, but fortunately the ability to build your own will not only reduce the cost per watt, but can also be a skill worth learning in this day and age. Even with just a rudimentary diy knowledge, you can build panels at home that will reduce the cost to around .40 to .00 per watt. The cost of building solar home panels must include the cost of learning how to construct them professionally. Various diy manuals are available online that offer full building instructions including video training and material lists for around fifty dollars and will require a small investment in equipment required to get the project completed such as soldering iron and volt meter.

For this small investment, you can dramatically increase the value of your home while at the same time having the skills to build solar home panels when and if the need and finances allow. As the demand for cost effective solar energy grows, you may even be able to benefit by building additional panels to produce an additional income.

Solar Home Panels - Building or Buying Solar Panels for Your Home
40 Watt Soldering Iron

Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit
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Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit

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Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit Feature

  • Lightweight pencil iron develops 900 degrees F
  • Stainless steel barrel and heat and impact resistant handle .
  • Indicator light allows you to instantly see that the iron is on.


Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit Overview

Marksman 40W soldering iron kit. Model No. SP40L iron; No. MT10, ST3, and ST7 tips; lead free solder; and soldering aid tool. Indicator light allows you to see that the iron is On. Ideal for electronics, electrical, hobbies, kits, etc. Develops 900 F. tem



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Weller WP25 Professional 25Watts/120V Soldering Iron

Weller WP25 Professional 25Watts/120V Soldering Iron
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Weller WP25 Professional 25Watts/120V Soldering Iron Feature

  • Professional soldering iron ideal for a wide variety of electronic tasks
  • Tip Temperature is 750° F
  • Quick change knurled collar with stainless steel barrel
  • Cushion grip handle and plug-in heating element
  • Made in Mexico


Weller WP25 Professional 25Watts/120V Soldering Iron Overview

WP25 Model Code: AA (part# WP25) This item features: -Used ST series long life double-coated iron-plated tips. -Quick change knurled collar. -Stainless steel barrel. -Light blue with cushion grip handle and plug-in heating element. -6' 3-wire cord. -IMPORTANT: Use only Weller tips. Use of non-Weller component causes damage to the unit. -Voltage: 120.00 VAC. -Tip Type: Screwdriver. -Tip Material: Copper. -Tip Finish: Iron-Nickel-Chrome. -Price is for 1 Each. Testing and approvals: -CUL listed. -UL listed. Model Code  Model Description AAOperating Temp.:750 F [Max], Power Consumption:25.000 W, Length:7 7/8 in ABOperating Temp.:800 F [Max], Power Consumption:30.000 W, Length:8 7/8 in ACOperating Temp.:800 F [Max], Power Consumption:35.000 W, Length:9 7/8 in



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Choosing the Right Soldering Iron for Electronics Work

Dan, one of my Facebook buddies, wrote to me asking about choosing a soldering iron:

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"Quick question... I'm looking for a new soldering iron. would you recommend anything under 40 dollars without a soldering station? I'm getting tired of my RadioShack 45 watt iron with the screw on tips (and having to use a bench grinder everyday to clean the tips)."

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I've been asked this question quite a bit, so I thought it was time to put something together explaining about soldering irons, flux and tinning.

Soldering Iron
The first thing I would recommend is getting an adjustable temperature soldering iron, and get used to setting the correct temperature for the different types of parts you are working with - hotter for larger gauge, and cooler for thinner, finer work. I typically work in the 325F to 400F range. I've been using the Velleman LAB1U, it has a built in multi-meter and power supply. These can be a bit pricey, so check out the Weller brand - sometimes they go on sale for around $40. I would avoid the Cold Heat soldering irons - they are unsuitable for delicate electronics, as are the big soldering "gun" type irons.

I used to use quite large gauge solder and tips, but just recently (after doing a lot of surface-mount work) switched to 1/32″ tip and 0.32″ diameter solder. This allows for much finer control with less overspill.

My soldering iron has a built in "damp sponge" to clean off excess solder inbetween uses. In the past I have used regular paper towels to do the same job, but a dedicated sponge with a circular hole cut in the middle really works best.

Helping Hands
The next thing I wouldn't be without is are some "Helping Hands" - these are pairs of crocodile clips that can be used to hold the workpiece while you concentrate on the soldering. this is really important, as it won't be long before you realise that you need 4 hands to solder things.

Even better than helping hands is a:

Bench Vice/Vise
I bought one of these 2 years ago and it's proven to be invaluable. The brand I use is "PanaVise" and they come with a range of bases and options - Fry's carries them, and they are available online. You can put the whole PCB you are working on into the vice, insert the components and then just flip it over to solder.

Flux Pen
Rosin Flux is a substance that encourages the solder to flow. If you find that you are having trouble getting a good solder joint then it's probably because the heat transfer isn't working correctly, or the components are dirty. Applying some solder flux to the joint area will really help - I've been using a flux pen for years and wouldn't want to be without one. An alternative is flux paste - like toothpaste it comes in a tube and can be applied with the fingers.

Tip Tinner and Cleaner
When you first fit a new soldering iron tip it will be bright, shiny and very difficult to work with. The solder will not stick to it and so you cannot "tin" the tip properly. Some people will use fine sandpaper to break in a new tip but I prefer to dip the new tip into some RadioShack "Tip Tinner and Cleaner". This starts the process nicely. It's also a good idea to dip the soldering iron after you are finished, and before you switch off. I find that it really helps to prevent the tip from wearing out prematurely.

Fume extractor
If you do a lot of soldering, then you need to get something installed on your bench to divert the fumes away from your face. It's not recommended to breath in solder fumes at all. I use a small fan, but a proper extractor is a very good idea.

Wire Cutters
The final piece of essential equipment is a pair of sharp, flat bottomed wire cutters. These are used to trim off excess component wire (the "leg") after soldering. The flat bottom is important to get the cut as close to the PCB as possible. Don't go too cheap with these, I paid about for mine.

That just about covers the basics of soldering, I would also think about getting a loupe (magnifier), some solder wick and solder "sucker" for removal, wire strippers and isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush for flux removal.

Very soon I'll put together a series of articles on soldering technique - covering basic through-hole assembly, and the more advanced surface-mount technology.

Choosing the Right Soldering Iron for Electronics Work
40 Watt Soldering Iron

PC Oscilloscopes: I Can Really Build My Own?

PC Based Oscilloscopes are a great way to display your electronic measurements on to your computer screen. They offer all of the same functions that a traditional bench top Oscilloscope offers, except that they allow you to display your waveforms and readings on a computer instead of a CRT. Now what would you think if I told you that not only are these new Technological wonders very affordable, but now you can build one of these PC Oscilloscopes yourself. Many of us think of Electronic Kit building as a thing of the past, and certainly the thought of building something like an Oscilloscope just doesn't seem possible these days.

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Well think again, because now there are PC Oscilloscope kits available that offer the same great functions as manufactured PC Oscilloscopes. Features like Step markers for voltage, time and frequency, digital displays, data storage, portability and more. They make a great additional to any Electronic Technicians or Engineers tool box, and there is nothing that gives you more pleasure than knowing that you have created something with your own hands.

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Building these PC Oscilloscope kits is actually quite easy and these kits don't require you to be an expert to build. If you have a basic knowledge of Electronics, soldering and the ability to identify Electronic components, you can build one of these kits. Step by step instructions are included taking you through every step of the building process. You will also find all of the necessary components and other parts required to build the kit. The only thing you will need to supply is your time.

If building a PC Oscilloscope is something that you are considering then you should make sure that you have these basic tools on hand before you start your project: A 25 watt Soldering Iron, a Solder Sucker, Needle Nose Pliers, Solder, a Work Light with magnifier and Cutters. A nice set of Precision Screwdrivers would be helpful as well.

Make sure you have a work space that allows you ample space to lay your parts our and give you enough room to work on your kit. Having adequate lighting to work on your project is a must especially when working with small parts. Take into consideration where you decide to work on your project as well. A kit of this size is something that you will most likely not finish in one evening. So make sure your work area will be safe and out of the way from high traffic areas.

PC Oscilloscope Kits are a great way for anyone to learn about Electronics. They not only provide hours of enjoyment , but offer great hands on learning about electricity, Ohms Law, resistors, capacitors, current, voltage, sensors, IC's and more. Best of all they give you the confidence and satisfaction of knowing you created something yourself.

PC Oscilloscopes: I Can Really Build My Own?
40 Watt Soldering Iron

Stained Glass Lead Came Technique

The lead came method of stained glass construction gives a visual aspect of uniform creases and an antique look. The lead channel is wrapped about the glass and then joined at the "seams" or joints by a bead of solder.

40 Watt Soldering Iron

Lead came, employed for connecting to bits of stained glass, comes in one channel, called "U came," or two channel, "H came," strips about six feet long. "U" lead strips are utilized to frame the exterior edges of glass, especially on small suncatchers or ornaments with only two or three glass pieces. In larger glass projects, the "H" lead strips are employed to join two bits of glass together, placed inside the grooves.

40 Watt Soldering Iron

Extending the lead strips before fitting it around the glass makes the lead more rigid and stronger. Some lead is pre-stretched, but might have acquired some kinks or bends in packaging, so you may like to stretch it a trifle to get the kinks out. Don't over-stretch as it will narrow the grooves in the channel, making it too narrow to adjust to about the glass. Lead that is stretched too much will break.

The lead is soft enough that after fitting it on the stained glass and ensuring that you have good connections, you can simply cut it with lead nippers, a lead knife or even scissors. Be cautious to make certain the joints you have cut butt so that it will be strong throughout the glass piece. Filling gaps between the joints takes a great amount of solder and makes the joints look sloppy and amateur.

Your stained glass work will be laid on a pine plank, beginning at two strips of wood nailed at right angles to each other. These timber strips will act as a support for your job. Your alternating pieces of lead and glass will be temporarily incorporated place by horseshoe nails as you progress across your stained glass pattern.

Each piece of stained glass and the lead strip approximately it has to adjust to within the pattern creases before you leave to the next piece. If one piece is too large and crosses over the pattern line, then every other piece will be off and your entire glass piece will be off.

Before you start soldering the lead joints on your glass project, you should practice on some scrap pieces of lead first. Lead melts so you need to check your soldering iron's temperature on the lead scraps first. If it is too hot, a rheostat can lower the temperature enough to avoid unwanted melting of the lead. A 40 watt soldering iron is hot plenty of.

Before you solder the lead joints, prepare the metal with flux, then move your soldering iron tip quick over the lead, creating a pool of the 60/40 solder. The pool of lead should smoothly flow over the seams and lie flat. It is not necessary to raise a big ball of solder at the joints.

Solder all joints on both sides of your stained glass plank. Clean the flux away with warm, soapy water. Reinforce the stained glass board by forcing a glazing compound or putty into the lead channels. Clean away all excess putty with whiting or sawdust, and then a soft cloth.

Another manner of joining stained glass, made by Louis C. Tiffany, is the copper foil manner of stained glass construction. The glass crafter can opt which method he/she prefers dependent on each individual stained glass project. Both ways of stained glass construction generally work equally well.

Stained Glass Lead Came Technique
40 Watt Soldering Iron

Sinometer 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed

Sinometer 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed
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Sinometer 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed Feature

  • Long life replaceable tip
  • 60 Watts and UL listed
  • Stand included
  • Impact resistance handle
  • 90 days money back guarantee and 1 year limited warranty


Sinometer 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed Overview

This professional 60 watt soldering iron features a replaceable tip, ergonomically designed cool grip rubber handle, and a nickel-iron plated long life copper tip. It provides an operating tip temperature of up to 860°F with fast heating time and quick heating recovery. 120 VAC.



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Sinometer 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed

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New Soldering Iron 40W 110V Solder Tool Pencil Craft !!

New Soldering Iron 40W 110V Solder Tool Pencil Craft !!
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New Soldering Iron 40W 110V Solder Tool Pencil Craft !! Overview

Brand New Soldering Iron. This pencil-type solder is perfect for hobbies, kits, radios, and electronics work. Soldering instructions included. 40 Watt - 110 V - 60 Hz Measures: 8" Sealed in original package.



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New Soldering Iron 40W 110V Solder Tool Pencil Craft !!

Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron

Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron
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Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Feature

  • 40-watt soldering iron ideal for electronics hobbyists
  • Develops 900 degrees F/482 degrees C temperature
  • Indicator light; stainless steel barrel; impact-resistant handle
  • Replaceable nickel-plated copper tip
  • 8-1/4 inches long; UL listed


Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Overview

The Weller Marksman 40-watt soldering iron is the perfect tool for the beginner or hobbyist in electronics. Constructed to be high-quality and lightweight, this mini-pencil tool has a replaceable nickel-plated copper tip and a stainless steel barrel, plus a heat and impact-resistant handle. Its indicator light lets you see instantly whether or not the iron is activated, and it develops a temperature up to 900 degrees F/482 degrees C. This soldering iron is UL listed for safety.

Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Specifications

The Weller Marksman 40-watt soldering iron is the perfect tool for the beginner or hobbyist in electronics. Constructed to be high-quality and lightweight, this mini-pencil tool has a replaceable nickel-plated copper tip and a stainless steel barrel, plus a heat and impact-resistant handle. Its indicator light lets you see instantly whether or not the iron is activated, and it develops a temperature up to 900 degrees F/482 degrees C. This soldering iron is UL listed for safety.

Available In Stock.

Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron